Andrew Prior

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A to Z of French Herbs - L'ail du Lomagne

Garlic

In the world of culinary delights, France is renowned for its exceptional cuisine and unique flavors. At the heart of French gastronomy lies the concept of "terroir," an expression of a region's distinct character and natural influences on food production.

From the rolling vineyards of Bordeaux to the fertile fields of Provence, terroir encapsulates the geographical factors that shape the taste and quality of ingredients. French cooking embraces this philosophy by utilizing the finest local produce, such as fragrant herbs, succulent meats, and exquisite cheeses.

The result is a harmonious fusion of flavors, where each ingredient contributes to the artistry and sophistication of French cuisine.

In an area of France known for its Fois Gras and Hazelnuts is the region of Lomagne which also produces its own garlic variety the L’Ail Blanc du Lomagne, White garlic of Lomagne.

Lomagne garlic has been growing in the region of Lomagne since the times of the Gauls who cultivated it over 1200 years ago. The Gauls found that the clay and limestone soils and the climatology of the region gave a distinct flavor to the garlic.

Beaumont de Lomagne

In 2008 the L’Ail du Lomagne was awarded an IGP label. The IGP label, L’indication geographic protégée is an identification given to the quality or reputation of a product, processing, or elaboration is from a specific region and that region only. Also, it has to come from an authorized farm with a referenced plat and meet a minimum size as well as the visual appearance of the bulbs themselves. This control makes it possible for the garlic to be certified IGP Ail Blanc de Lomagne.

Lomagne is a region of rolling cultivated plains, valleys, lakes, and hillsides with wooded areas and rich agricultural lands. In fact, around 80% of the land is occupied for agricultural uses. Its rich history has made the region also popular for tourists. There are many Gallo-Roman and medieval ruins throughout as well as large castles, chateaux, and fortresses that are rich in history to find.

The geographical area of production of Lomagne white garlic actually takes in around 200 municipalities in the Gers and Tarn-et-Garonne departments of France. In 1929 production of the garlic was around 500 hectares, in the 80’s this had increased to over 2,800 hectares.

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L’ail du Lomagne

Lomagne garlic is white and has regular-sized bulbs with around 8-12 m within. Caieux is the botanical term for the smaller cloves within a bulb of garlic. These departments are situated in the Occitania region.

Though garlic had been produced in the region since the Gauls it wasn’t until 1958 when the garlic producers union mobilized to produce quality garlic and in 1965 a standardization of garlic, including its category, caliber, and visual appearance of its bulbs became mandatory.

The producer decides when to harvest the garlic, they take into account the beginning of yellowing in the foliage and the softening with the collar. The ratio of the weight of the bulb and leaves is also a good indicator of the maturity of the garlic.

The garlic is usually harvested around Saint John’s Day in June of each year. In France, the "Fête de la Saint-Jean" feast of St John is traditionally celebrated with bonfires that are reminiscent of Midsummer's pagan rituals and is a Catholic festivity in celebration of Saint John the Baptist. It takes place on June 24, on Midsummer day.

Garlic Braids

Once it’s harvested the garlic is dried for about 2-3 weeks. The traditional method is called bar drying in which the garlic is suspended in bunches of 30 bulbs in a sheltered and well-ventilated room.

The ‘Autan’, a warm, dry wind that blows in off the Mediterranean, plays a very important role in the natural drying process. It is very strong in Lomagne and so helps to preserve the traditional open-air drying technique. The garlic is peeled manually by hand to remove the outside layers to reveal the white bulbs

Climatic conditions affect the period of availability of the Lomagne white garlic which can be from the 15th of July until the 15th of December. Usually, you will see it being sold in trays, in a net, or in braids.

Garlic has an antioxidant effect and protects cells from the impact of free radicals apparently. It can also lower blood pressure and help to fight cholesterol. It can even play a role in the prevention of early phases of cancer. In fact, a recent study showed that the average consumption of 6 cloves of garlic or more per week can reduce the risk of colorectal cancer by 30% and the risk of stomach cancer by 50%.

Every year in July the town of Beaumont de Lomagne holds a garlic festival in the heart of the town under cover the the old undercover market. Garlic is so popular in Beaumont that in September they hold a weekend dedicated to the farmers and producers of garlic as well.

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There’s an expression that some of our New York listeners might already know that I love that says so much about garlic.