A to Z of French Herbs - Licorice - Liquorice - Réglisse
Licorice
Liqourice as it’s known in UK English but in the US its Licorice but in France, it is known as Réglisse.
The word Licquorice both the English and US versions is derived via the Anglo-French Lycorys which comes from the Latin word Liquiritia which itself came from the Greek word for sweet root.
Licorice is the common name of Glycyrrhiza glavra, This botanical name also comes from the Greek word glabra.
It’s a flowering plant from the Fabaceae family or bean family. It’s the root of the plant that is harvested for its sweet and aromatic flavor. It’s a herbaceous perennial plant that grows to about 1 meter or 40 inches in height and its leaves are about 7-15cm in length or around 3-6 inches long. Licorice has long purple to pale blue flowers and the plant has a long pod that forms a fruit that contains seeds. But it is the root that is most sought after.
Many would consider Licorice to be a legume or vegetable but in France, it is considered more a herb. It’s native to Western Asia, North Africa, and Southern parts of Europe. It grows best in well-drained soils in deep valleys with full sun. It is harvested in autumn usually two to three years after planting.
Napoleons Tomb in Paris
Its use is for flavoring in confectionery, tobacco, beverages, and also in pharmaceuticals where it is often marketed as a dietary supplement.
The root of the licorice plant inside is yellow and has a complex scent that some adore and some detest. This scent comes from a variation of different compounds and the sweetness comes from glycyrrhizin which has 30-50 times the sweetness of sugar. This sweetness is different from that of sugar though as it is less tart, and doesn’t taste sweet straight away but the sweet taste lasts longer.
There’s a legacy of licorice that goes back to 2300 BC in China where Emperor Shennong had recorded the use of licorice as a magic plant that rejuvenated aging in men apparently. Liquorice was found in Tutankhamun’s tomb in Egypt and was a common ingredient in Ancient Greek remedies.
Throughout history, many people loved licorice including Alexander the Great, the Indian prophet Brahma, many Egyptian pharaohs, and former US President Ronal Reagan who is said to have loved Licorice jelly beans.
In France, Napoleon on his deathbed is said to have asked for the root to be mixed with his water in a bottle so he could drink it because he loved it. Napoleon would often have licorice to relieve stomach aches and also used it on the battlefield as he believed it calmed his nerves.
Licorice Lollies
Liquorice is found in a wide variety of lollies, candies, and sweets. In most of these sweets though the taste is in fact reinforced with aniseed oil. This means that the actual content of licorice in these sweets is actually quite low.
The Kama Sutra recommends licorice in a milk and sugar concoction as an aphrodisiac. In Germany, the gift of licorice sweets in chocolate is considered a special and very intimate gift.
In Italy, Spain, and France liquorice is used in its natural root form. This is harvested, washed, dried, and then often chewed as a mouth freshener. Although I’ve yet to find a Frenchman chewing on some licorice before going in for a good pash.
Culinary licorice is often used in the kitchen as an extract. Licorice powder can be added to many dishes and is easily mixed with flour and used in breads, desserts, and sometimes even sprinkled over meats. It’s also used in herbal teas and infusions.
Uze’s in Occitaine France is not just a gorgeous town but also some would say the home of licorice in France. They have been making licorice candies there in the famous Zan factory since 1862. Zan was founded by Henri Lafont and has been owned by Haribo since 1897. Their flagship product was the "stick to suck" which was composed entirely of licorice extract and whose flattened end was marked "Pure Zan juice”.
Licorice and Lemon Tea
With the rise of transport and the proximity of Uzès to the Faculty of Medicine of Montpellier, the first-world faculty of medicine, the licorice trade grew. In Uzes, there is now a candy museum that has been opened since 1996 on the site of these old factories where they also highlight the importance of licorice in all forms.
In Paris, during the 18th century, they used to have a drink, a flavored tea that was steeped in licorice and lemons which was very popular. It was called Coco.
Pastis is a very popular liquor here in France and can be seen in many caves (bottle shops), supermarkets, and stores around France. Pastis is made from licorice and has many similar liquors around the Mediterranean including Ouzo in Greece, Raki in Turkey, Sambuca in Italy, Arak in Lebanon, and Mastika in Bulgaria.
Pastis is most popular in France in the summer months and in particular in the south of France. Its name comes from the Occitan word for mash-up. It is usually sold by Ricard and was first commercially sold 17 years after Absinthe was banned in France. It’s made by mixing a neutral base spirit with licorice flavoring. Many French will have it in cocktails but the most popular way to enjoy it is on its own with a splash of water and is usually had as an aperitif.
Game of thrones and House of Dragon writer George R R Martin said about licorice.
“Licorice steeped in vinegar, with honey and cloves. It will give you some strength and clear your head”